Radegast Hall & Biergarten
Two weeks ago during an all-too-fun dinner at Club Macanudo with friends they all spoke of this authentic German biergarten-esque place they went to in Brooklyn. While the Germans were never ones for haute culinary atmosphere, all I wanted to know was if the food was good and the beer menu large and they said “yes” to both questions. I know that sounds overly simplified for me and you’re right, so let me clue you in on what two words sold me: venison sausage. Yep, those two words are indeed a turn on.
I don’t know about you, but I hate surprises — to me there is nothing fun in them and I’m usually left disappointed in some way or another. As I do with every new place I try I go to the website (assuming there is one) and check out the menus and Radegast seemed perfect for the hot and sticky summer we’ve been having in New York Cold beer, tubular meats, homemade pretzels and hopefully not sharing the dining hall with morons all signal cooling off for me at this point. The beer menu is rather impressive, but what really thrilled me was seeing a friend’s beer there on the menu straight from Belgium. I hadn’t enjoyed Malheur since I was with the Brewmaster at a cigar dinner in Antwerp last June. At that point I was so fixated on drinking Malheur that I was clinically obsessed with reliving my happy Flemish memories.
Before I go any further, let me warn you that Radegast is in Williamsburg. Yes, Williamsburg: where men don fedoras, wear skinny jeans, and canvas boating shoes as regular attire; where women rarely wear clothing that has sleeves, have bright tattoos of animal life on their arms, and look like they haven’t washed their hair in a week. The four of us looked like an odd lot walking the streets to get to this place and I have to admit I felt a douchebag in that neighbourhood, but since I don’t listen to the same indie bands as the residents do nor drink cans of PBR & chase them with shots of whiskey, I suppose some of my dignity remains intact.
Now down to business.
I started off with a half-liter of Radeberger which is an old favourite and the guys went for Palm Al
e and Kolsch, and with that we immediately order two pretzels and thank God we did because these are the greatest pretzels ever baked. They are large, intensely buttery in taste, and were served with sour pickles and their house mustard which I’m now hooked on with it’s creamy texture infused with bits of relish and spices. Radegast has a small food menu of German and Eastern European specialties, but this place is really all about the grill which is separate from the sit-down foods. Two of the guys made the walk down the hall to the grill and placed orders for what was to be a wonderfully simple, but incredibly tasty meal.
My first bite was of the kielbasa and Holy Mother of God was is tasty: beautifully red in colour, thick natural casing that truly snapped when you bit into it, and had just the right amount of smoke infused from the grille. I don’t know if the guys ordered everything this way, but each sausage we got came on a bed homemade sauerkraut that I think I dreamt of last night. We also got an order of what they call “Easter sausage” which was a white sausage that was nice, but unimpressed us all because the flavours were so minute in comparison to everything else. Of course the champion of the night’s cuisine was indeed the venison sausage which was intense, rich, and so balanced it was scary. I don’t care what anyone says because I know that Bambi is tasty no matter how you prepare her, but last night she was at the top of her little doe game.
You may think at this point we’re all fat and happy and you’re right, except we were happy and borderline entering a food coma. I know it didn’t sound like a bunch of food to share between four adults, but don’t forget the beer which in itself has more carbs than the food we consumed. We finished our first steins and when it came time for another round I had to order the Malheur 10, aka the champagne of beers, and I had two disappointments in a row: first was that our adorable waitress has no knowledge of beers or the French language, and secondly she told me they were out of Malheur. (Manu, if you read this, PLEASE ship more beer to Brooklyn!) After browsing the insane list one more time for something to drink I noticed Radegast won my heart over once more because they had the beer from my namesake brewery, so I had to have it. From Brauerei Heller in Bamberg, Germany hails the Schlenkerla Rauchbier (Smokebeer) which is FABULOUS. Smokebeers are dark, heavy, and ridiculously rich but you know what makes this Heller beer the best: it smells and tastes like smoked bacon. Yes, you read that correctly — bacon — like large chunks of crispy pork fat in liquid form fresh out of a smoker.
We had been eating and drinking at a friendly pace for a little over three hours at this point and I can’t speak for the guys, but I honestly felt like I was busting at the seems. They ordered more beer and I transitioned to ice water when the man who I affectionately call the “Ring Leader” rounds up the waitress and orders pork tenderloin, so what do I say when I’m too full for anything else? The words “Do you have spaetzle?” fly out of my mouth. Before this food even comes the four of us are about to fall off the benches we’re so uncomfortably full, so as fun-loving degenerates we start placing bets as to where the waitress was from since she uttered a “ya’ll” and muster up the courage to eat on.
All-in-all I like this place: it’s large, easy to get to, has a highly respectable beer menu, and the food is authentic as well as fresh and frankly delicious. To cap off this experience when returning from the bathroom to the biergarten I saw a Zach Galifonakis look-a-like whip out his dick in front of me because I’m guessing he had to pee really badly, so if you like variety, all sorts of tubular meat do exist in Williamsburg.






place for them everywhere in my food, from scrambled eggs to pasta to on top of a good burger, and I have no shame in incorporating them into whatever I can. Yes, they are expensive and rather rare, but I simply love them.
Now that Memorial Day has passed and the Summer Solstice is upon us, I can proudly say we’ve entered “BBQ Season.” It’s that time of year where the sun shines stronger and longer, we all try to work a little less, and the weather patterns make it more conducive to have those great get-togethers amongst family and friends. Assuming you don’t live in Manhattan like I do, chances are you have a BBQ of some sorts and it’s cleaned off and ready to go. (I actually have a grill to be perfectly honest and maybe you’ve heard of the brand: it’s a Foreman. <wink, wink>)


